Thursday, December 28, 2023

Frances and the Sea Lion

The arrival of our helicopter on Seal Rock, a naked pile of stones off the southern entrance to Prince William Sound, scattered the adult sea lions like dandelion seeds in a gust of wind.  It was the early 1970s and we were on a mission to brand their new-born pups, innocents born far from the presence of man -- until we showed up.  This Steller’s sea lion natal rookery lays along the route the Exon Valdez would have taken had it not encountered Blye Reef.   The research project goal -- to learn about the movements of these Sea Lions.  After they matured,  branded sea lions could be tracked as they roamed about the Gulf of Alaska.  No one knew if populations from different rookeries moved about or remained faithful to their “rock of birth.”  Armored with hip boots and heavy rain gear, we would wade into tide pools where the temporarily abandoned pups congregated.  With the brands each one received it’s personal identity  - kind of like it’s own social security number. 

If you’re envisioning clear pools of sea water, the substrate covered with flowing strands of green kelp, red and green sea stars decorating outcroppings and sea anemones waving their tentacles hoping to snare a passing bit of plankton, you haven’t been to a tide pool on Seal Rock.  Sea lions are not house broken.  When the mother gives birth, no mid wife cleans up the remnants.  When a pup dies, there is no funeral procession to remove the last remains.  These pools are opaque brown, the surrounding air fouled with their stench.  Our job -- to wade into these septic messes and grab the pups in a frenzy of splashes in their attempt to get away.

In the early 1970s the Alaska Department of Fish and Game was an undemocratic organization.  Female biologists were not welcome beyond the office.  Statements like “could you imagine how wives would feel if their husbands went into the field with a woman,” prevailed.  Eventually a few courageous women braved that prejudice to be hired by the Division to work in the lab.  Frances was the first woman in the Anchorage office to finally break the ultimate shatter-proof glass ceiling and go into the field.  Her first trip -- a helicopter ride to Seal Rock. 

The project coordinator assigned Frances what seemed like a somewhat benign task.  At the head of a large elongated tide pool, where most of our quarry congregated, a rock ridge separated the “pond” from the swells rolling in from the Gulf of Alaska.  At low tide, the restless surface of the Gulf waters lay many feet below the level of the tide pool, but incoming swells swept high up the ridge.  On the Gulf side a bull sea lion weighing as much as a Volkswagen Beetle seemed particularly intent with reclaiming his territory.  Frances’ job -- Persuade him it was now hers.  While she had a gun, the idea was that just by standing on the narrow rock outcrop, perhaps 10-feet above the pool and twice as far above the open ocean, he would agree.  Wrong.  As each swell surged up the rock face, the bull would rise with it, lunging towards Frances in an effort to show her who really owned that slab of real estate.  

With each surge the bull became more and more brazen until on one huge ocean wave he rose almost eye to eye with Francis.  Reflexively she stepped backwards, lost her footing and plunged into the tide pool’s primordial soup.  I can still envision the brown geyser that gushed out of her mouth as she emerged from beneath that “goo.”  Frances did not enjoy the remainder of the field excursion.   I wonder if she regretted her "good fortune" at the becoming the first woman to be a Game Division field biologist that day.

Of course I packed my camera during these tagging operations and exposed more than a few rolls of 35 mm film.  One head shot of a pup caught Karen’s attention.  She wanted to paint it.  It is Karen’s only oil painting, but demonstrates the versatility of this watercolorist recently turned acrylic artist. 


                                 Waiting for Mama  16 x 20 inches  Oil on Canvas

The Mermaid

Karen misses swimming in 4-Mile Lake, Wisconsin, where she spent summers during her childhood years.  She misses it a lot.  And so, this past August, on a muggy (mid-60s) afternoon during a visit by her cousin Connie from Iowa, Karen, Connie and Don hiked up an alder-lined, barricaded gravel road ending at Petersburg's back-up water reservoir.  Karen, her brow revealing beads of moisture, lamented how she wished she could plunge in that lake like she did back at 4 Mile.  "Oh how I wish."    

Reaching the end of the road, Karen disappeared, wandering down to the shore of this wild lake surrounded by virgin spruce and hemlock forest and subalpine mountains.   Not a soul appeared in sight...no one...just the lake, the forested mountains and us.  There, ignoring the no trespassing signs, like the uninhibited child that still lives within, Karen succumbed.  She stripped and plunged in -- Yes, skinny dipping in the town's back-up drinking water supply while Connie and Don, still on the road, thought she was off taking photos.  Finally, refreshed, Karen emerged to bask on a rock and let the sun perform the duties of a plush cotton towel.

And that's when the entire Petersburg high school cross-country track team on a training run crested the last rise in the road above the reservoir to view a 76-year-old version of a scene reminiscent of Denmark's mermaid on a rock.  Karen knew she had been caught when shortly afterwards the cross-country coach came breathlessly running up to ask, "is everything OK?"  Then, spying Karen, dressed by that time except for her dripping hair and sans socks, shoes, and appearing quite refreshed, he grinned.

Now the other character in this saga, Cousin Connie, delights in the variety of trails  around Petersburg, but not the lack of rest room facilities.  She asked. "Would it be safe to pee in the woods?"  "Sure," I assured her, "as long as you get well off the trail and behind a tree."  And so, the day before Connie's visit ended, sure enough, the urge struck.  Checking up and down the trail she determined she was alone,  like at the reservoir, not a soul in sight or within earshot.  Connie stepped off the trail but failed to fully heed the terms of my advice -- well off the trail, behind a tree.  Need I tell you what happened next?  Remember that high school cross-country team and their training runs?  Yep!

That team had quite a summer.

Alas, Karen accidentally deleted her photos of the reservoir that day so instead I'm including some of her favorite images from the past.  Also, included are a couple of photos Karen took of other swimmers in the reservoir.  


The scene of the "crime"


A Sitka black-tailed deer "guards" the entrance gate
 of the road leading to the reservoir.


Alders line the access road to the reservoir...


as well as lupine, here seen blooming in the spring.


Another view of the reservoir in the spring.


Other swimmers in the reservoir, ring-neck ducks with the drake
revealing how the species got it's name.  
I still wonder why they weren't called ring-billed ducks.


Another shot of the drake ring-neck duck.


Oh dear, a Vancouver Canada Goose on the reservoir needs some grooming.


Away from the reservoir, surely no one would see someone off the trail here.


Other walkers on Petersburg's trail system.

Thursday, January 12, 2023

Fluff

Petersburg's Clausen Memorial Museum's annual Christmas celebration included a Christmas ornament silent auction fundraiser.  So when the call came out I decided to rise to the occasion.  But what to do?  Ah -- I'd needle felt a sheep and forget hanging it.  My sheep would be a candidate for the lucky high-bidder's Christmas manger scene.

I must say, the project provided more enjoyment than Christmas shopping, wrapping gifts, mailing letters (still not finished) and the other "have tos" that add stress to the holiday season.  But, as for my sheep -- well Fluff, as he transed into a she, also proved that my idea of a sheep looked more like...well, a canine.  Yes, evolution in real time.  So, instead of fighting it, I went with the flow.  

After photographing her in the wild Karen delivered Fluff to the Museum.  That's when I noticed in an image the museum posted on their website that Fluff looked a bit disheveled and had collected a bit of debris during her adventures with Karen.  Off I trotted to collect Fluff for grooming only to discover she had been designated to hang via a paper clip attached to her collar.  Surely I could rig up a harness for her -- no problem.  Umm..er...dang...whoops...oh no...yikes...help...and so Karen did.

Without further ado, I present you with Fluff, Alaska' almost forgotten Iditarod Trail lead sled dog.



The original Fluff off on and adventure


Gaining altitude for a better view


Meeting the neighbors


I present you with Fluff in her new harness


Good dog, Fluff.  Now...Mush!

Of course now you probably want to know a little of Fluff's background so I did a background search and here's what I discovered.

Excerpt from Wackopedia

Many people know delivery of a canister of diphtheria antitoxin saved Nome in January, 1925, and there, the story seemed to end.  


But, did it?  No!  That 20 pound canister of serum was sent off from Anchorage with a 5 cent deposit so it would be returned to be recycled.  And as we all learned from Robert W. Service, "a promise made, is a debt unpaid."  


However, after delivery of the antitoxin, NOAA predicted nothing but intense blizzards for the rest of winter.  While there were plenty of willing mushers, no dogs could be found able to navigate the Iditarod Trail through all that blowing snow.  Could a disaster be averted? 


Yes!  Up barked Fluff with her nose so bright.  Fluff could bring that canister back to the recycling site.


So now you know.  Fluff, the almost forgotten lead sled dog from Nome, Alaska, led the dog team through endless blizzards to return that valued Diphtheria serum canister.   Alas, no epic story appeared in the New York Times or even got a single Tweet.  All that remains is this replica of Fluff needle felted down to the exact detail of that remarkable dog.  


Don Cornelius